Essential oil vs. Carrier oil: Do you know the Difference?

As we discussed in a previous blog posting, there is a lot of confusion and ambiguity surrounding many of the Sea Buckthorn oils on the market and in skincare formulations. In addition to the points we mentioned in our previous blog, there is another common misconception: Essential oil of Sea Buckthorn. We’ve seen this “ingredient” listed on some supplier sites and in several skincare formulations—interesting, since currently, there is no such thing as a true Sea Buckthorn Essential oil on the market. Both Sea Buckthorn fruit oil and Sea Buckthorn seed oil are actually Carrier oils. So what is the difference between a Carrier oil and an Essential oil and why is it important to differentiate between the two? Because Essential oils and Carrier oils are completely different “oil” types, with completely different structures and uses, and are obtained in completely different ways.

Essential oils are also known as volatiles or ethereal oils. Technically, they are not oils, but volatile hydrophobic liquids that evaporate. Some of the main chemical constituents found in Essential oils include Alcohols, Aldehydes, Esters, Ethers, Ketones, Phenols, and Terpenes. Essential oils are obtained ONLY by steam distillation, hydro-distillation, or vacuum distillation of various aromatic parts of a botanical, including the leaves, bark, steam, or flowers. Note that even an “Essential oil” obtained by “CO₂-distillation” is not a true Essential oil, as it was not actually obtained by distillation. It’s simply an extract, and has different properties than an Essential oil.

Essential oils tend to be clear to yellow in colour, are highly concentrated, and carry the powerful, characteristic aroma of the plant or plant part from which they were obtained. They can be volatilized or diluted in carrier oils for use on the skin, diffused in the air, or burned as incense. Essential oils do not go rancid over time, but they do oxidize and lose their therapeutic benefits. Because they are extremely potent, a little goes a long way—especially in skincare products. A mere drop or two, diluted in carrier oils, is generally enough to impart the oil’s scent and therapeutic benefits. Some people can experience severe reactions to Essential oils, especially if they are used undiluted on the skin.

Carrier oils, on the other hand, are true oils. They are also known as vegetable oils, base oils, or fixed oils (though not all carrier oils are vegetable oils—some carrier oils, such as emu oil, are actually derived from animals). Carrier oils are typically obtained from the fatty portion of a plant (or animal!) via a variety of different methods, including Supercritical extraction, cold-press, solvent extraction, maceration, and centrifuge. Their molecular structures are much heavier and larger than those of Essential oils and consist mainly of lipids, such as fatty acids, waxes, and fat-soluble vitamins, such as A, D, E, and K (substances which are not found in an Essential oil). They generally do not have a strong, concentrated odor (though some, such as black cumin seed oil, do emit a powerful aroma) and they do not evaporate (hence the term ‘fixed’ oil), unlike volatile essential oils. They are called “carrier oils” because they carry Essential oils into the skin. However, Carrier oils are not used in skincare products and massage therapy simply to dilute and extend the life of Essential oils. They also offer their own unique characteristics and therapeutic benefits. For example, some Carrier oils, like Sea Buckthorn fruit and seed oils, have nourishing, healing, softening, anti-aging, and protective properties, making them very desirable for skincare formulations. The shelf life of a Carrier oil varies depending on the constituents of the oil, and Carrier oils do go rancid over time.

So, as you can see, Essential oils are very different from Carrier oils. The two oil types are not interchangeable and shouldn’t be confused with one another. Sea Buckthorn fruit and seed oils are both Carrier oils—and this is actually what makes them special. It’s their molecular structures, with amazing fatty acid profiles, including Omegas 3, 6, 7, & 9, vitamins, antioxidants, and other nutrients, which makes them so valuable. So if you see “Sea Buckthorn Essential oil” in a product formulation, you can guess that the oil is actually a Carrier oil or extract, not an Essential oil, and that’s not a bad thing, it just means that the source may be misinformed about what type of oil they have!  And if you have any doubt, ask the manufacturer how the oil was extracted and what its main chemical constituents are—that should give a big clue as to what type of oil it actually is!

Supercritical Oil Extraction Explained

Mont Echo Naturels is the first company in North America to commercially extract our own Supercritical Sea Buckthorn Seed and Fruit oils ourselves, onsite, from Canadian-grown fruit.

As you read that statement, you may be wondering: What exactly does “Supercritical” mean?

Well, “Supercritical” refers to the method by which we extract our oils.

Sea Buckthorn oils are very difficult to extract and require care and specialized processes to ensure a pure, unspoiled product. When we were designing and developing our onsite processing facility in Sutton, Quebec, we considered many different methods of oil extraction for our Sea Buckthorn, such as solvent extraction, cold-pressing, hot-pressing, centrifuge, and maceration in another carrier oil. Some methods we ruled out immediately, such as solvent extraction (since we didn’t want to expose our oils to any hazardous solvents), hot-pressing (since the heat destroys valuable nutrients in the oils) and centrifuge (since Sea Buckthorn oil extraction by centrifuge usually requires the use of chemicals or extreme heat— both of which damage the oil). After considering our options, we selected a technique known as Supercritical Fluid Extraction to extract our fruit and seed oils. It was an easy choice for a number of reasons: Oils extracted using this method are very pure and highly concentrated, and Supercritical extraction is a modern, environmentally-friendly and safe method of extraction. The process requires no synthetic additives or hazardous chemical solvents. And oils extracted via this method can be certified organic by such international certification agencies as EcoCert.

Carbon dioxide pressure-temperature phase diagram

So how does it work? Well, in short, the process involves pressurizing carbon dioxide (CO₂) until it reaches the supercritical stage, at which point the gas turns to a liquid. The liquid CO₂ is then passed through a chamber containing the prepared Sea Buckthorn plant material. As it combines with the plant material, it extracts the oil from the plant material like a solvent. The CO₂ is then depressurized, and naturally turns back into a gas, leaving behind the pure oil extract. The process does not create any new carbon dioxide, but merely recycles existing carbon dioxide. That means there’s no addition to any greenhouse effect.

Our oils are extracted onsite by our dedicated team, led by Mont Echo Naturels president, Brad Johnson. As a Biochemist with 10 years of experience working in diagnostic testing and processing efficiency for the food, beverage, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries, Brad is well-equipped for the task.

So, what does “Supercritical” mean? It means that our oils are pure, highly concentrated, and created using an environmentally-friendly process. And, since the fruit from which the oils are extracted is grown locally, in accordance with organic standards, it means that our oils are among the best available – and the only ones of their kind in the world.